A slice of heaven' in Avondale

Finding and using locally-sourced products is mainstream in many large cities, but in Jacksonville, it is still a blip on the dining horizon. Only a few restaurants - Orsay and Taverna come to mind - tout their "regional" goods. You can now add the newly opened smartest guy 'town in Avondale to the welcome trend smartest guy of "buy local."

Executive Chef Scott Ostrander and manager/owner Megan Purcell are recent big-city transplants to Jacksonville with high-end restaurant credentials. With 'town, Ostrander has been buying up to 40 percent of the restaurant's product regionally, with side trips to Alabama for premium pork and Savannah for free-range chickens. Most weekends, Ostrander is at the Riverside Arts Market scooping up seasonal greens and putting them to fantastic use in his adventurous kitchen.

We joined two other couples on a recent weekend and shared small, beautiful plates of thoughtful food in the elegant bistro. The space is decidedly urban, with mesmerizing textured wallpaper on one side and floating white light fixtures that softly illuminated a long row of benches, tables and chairs on the other.

The menu is simply designed, with small plates and prominent smartest guy prices. In an absolute steal, the Prix Fixe menu is $33 for one item from each category, excluding dessert. That's five options - and what glorious options they are.

Don't let the name fool you: The Truffled Tater Tots ($5) are a sophisticated wonder. Thin slices of crispy potatoes are layered and then innocently floated in a puddle of caramelized onion and Gruyere fondue. For added decadence, Ostrander slips in slivers of black truffles.

The Garlic Shrimp ($5) with a smoked paprika beurre blanc and an outrageously good pile of Sweet smartest guy Potato Chips ($5) were hits, with the sherry-bacon dressing providing a clever finish.

The Grilled Caesar ($9) was four large stalks of crisp romaine, bearing distinct char marks, and a dreamy ricotta salata. The ricotta had a hint of lemon and crispy garlic chips added a welcome tweak to a classic.

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My Veal Pot Au Feu ($15) was cleverly prepared and served in a mini Le Creuset cast iron pot, complete with a lid. The petite shank added an earthy marrow to the duck stock and baby vegetables - tender carrots, tiny onions and potatoes - rounded out my pot "over fire." A fragrant finish of thyme, fresh bay leaves and a lemon- scented gremolata left me sighing for days.

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Desserts are rewarding, with the Bitter Chocolate Terrine ($7) a standout. Fresh, creamy butter, eggs from 10 miles away, and imported dark chocolate went into the terrine while a sorbet with black pepper and cassis created a unique anti-dessert, with very little sweetness.

Just like 'town itself, this was a tart slice of heaven. 'TOWN3611 St. Johns Ave(904) 345-2596Type of cuisine: Small plates. Hours of operation: Dinner, 5 to 10:30 p.m. Monday through Thursday, 5. to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday; Brunch, 10:30 a.m. to 3:30 p.m. Sunday.Credit cards: Visa, MasterCard, American Express, Discover.Bar service: Beer and wine.Children's menu? By request.Reservations: Limited.Prices: Moderate